Har-ki-Dhun Trek | The Trekking Phase

DAY 01-Dehradun (640mts) to Sankri (1850mts)

The day started off, by detaching myself from the comfortable foam mattress. Least did I knew that these comforts will not matter to me over the next few days, in comparison to what the Himalayas proffers.

Around 6:30 AM, Suman and I, were at the Dehradun railway station, meeting the fellow trekkers. We all started our journey towards Sankri, our base camp, which is around 250kms drive from Dehradun. 

The Dehradun to Mussoorie is an awesome stretch, and the Black Beauty crossed my mind each time the driver drove through the curves. By the time we crossed the topsy-turvy roads of Kempty falls-Purola-Moori-and-Netwar, our energy level dropped and so did the mobile network’s strength! And there we were in the no-network-zone while the entire world was panicky about the Nepal earthquake! :D

We reached the base camp around 3:00 PM. We were welcomed with a glass of Nimbu Paani. More than the welcome drink, what refreshed me the most was the glimpse of snow-clad mountains from the camp site. Within an hour or so, we had already experienced three seasons. The fleece jacket and the rain-wear were already out, and each of us were almost looking like stuffed toys. :D

The rest of the day was spent exploring Sankri and interacting with the fellow trekkers, the trek-leaders, and the localites.

DAY 02-Sankri (1850mts) to Taluka (1900mts)

The day began by sipping a cup of black tea. Trust me, in that weather, I am sure even the hot water will taste the best! 

Right from dwelling in the 6X6 tent to getting adapted to the Himalayan weather, everything single chore seemed to be new. It took approximately two hours for us to get ready, dismantle the tent and start our journey to Taluka which is about 11kms from Sankri.

Trekking as such is one of the most beautiful forms of travelling. And if you are photo enthusiast and walking in the Himalayan trail, the number of pictures you click will be almost equivalent to the number of footsteps. At some point of my first-day trek, it occurred to me that it is equally important to capture those frames in my mind along with capturing those in the camera.  I later had to shift my focus on enjoying the journey and observing the marvel of nature.

Taluka Village

After quite a number of ascends and descends we finally reached Taluka. Sipping a cup of hot chai energized us to further continue our journey to the campsite which was a few kms ahead of Taluka.

The moment we saw our camp location, right next to the Supin river, we had almost forgot the strenuous journey.

Camp Site

Some Solitude moment

After sumptuous lunch and some solitude moments, we spent some time on collecting the twigs for the campfire. By the end of the day, the fellow trekkers were no more strangers. 

DAY 03-Taluka (1900mts) to Pauni Gharat (~2500 mts)

For someone who downloads all nature-related apps, and locks herself in a dark room to listen to the sound of nature, Day 03 was a treat! To listen to the roaring Supin river for the whole night [without the fear of battery being drained out :)], to wake up listening to the chirping of birds, and to sip a cup of hot black tea amidst the chilling wind; was altogether a splendid experience which I shall cherish for the lifetime!

The wildflowers, the burbling streams, the bridges, and a sneak peek to the PahaaDi culture kept us on toes for the next five hours. By the end of the 7kms journey, we reached our next camp, Puani Gharat.

Why is it called puani gharat? Check this video.

The Penstock

The Flour Mill

Another wonderful day came to an end, after:

• 
  
• Having some hilarious conversation with Suman
• Listening to the some classic Kannada songs 
• Listening to the trekking tales of the trek-leader

DAY 04: Puani Gharat (~2550mts) to Kalkati Dhar (2950mts)

Puani Gharat Camp

The camp was located on an elevated land, right next to the supin river. It was surrounded by rocky mountains and paddy field. We all woke up to a sweet surprise; the tip of these rocky mountains were coated with a layer of snow. Looks like nature had worked hard to change the backdrop, overnight. :)

Kalkati Dhar Camp

After gathering all our belongings, around 8 AM, we began our ascend towards the next camp location, Kalkati Dhar. En route we passed through Osla, supposedly the last village in this stretch. There was no bound for joy when we got to hear about the availability of the Satellite phones. It must have been a solace for our near ones to hear from us! It was probably after this phone call, the trek-pace was increased!

After the hailstorm

The journey towards Kalkati Dhar wasn't an easy one. We had to pass through a narrow and steep trail. Adding to it, the rain and hail storm worsened the situation making the trail more slippery.

By the time we reached the camp location, we were damn tired. Nevertheless, the camp location instantly changed the mood of tired-trekkers. Each side of the camp was surrounded by snow-capped mountains. It was surely a visual treat  and gave us a sense that we are surrounded with screen savers!                                             
  

DAY 05: Kalkati Dhar (2950mts) | Har-ki-Dhun (3566mts)| Kalkati Dhar (2950mts)

It was the Summit Day. We started the trek around 6 AM, as we had to reach Har-ki-Dhun and return to Kalkati Dhar camp before the weather worsens. It was altogether a journey of 14 kms.

It was brutally cold when we set out of the camp.My palms were almost frozen and I had trouble holding the trek pole. The gradient gradually increased and further reduced the pace. For the next three to four hours we all slogged slowly, pausing only to gasp, sip water, and click some photos. The intense variety of flora in these trials enthralled us and kept us motivated.

As we continued to walk up the trail, the muddy and rocky trail was now transformed into snow-trail. It was fun to see how each one of us were slipping on the snow. By around 12 pm we finally reached the HAR-KI-DHUN.

Har-ki-dhun is a cradle shaped valley in the Garhwal Himalayan ranges towering Swargarohini and Bandarpunch peaks.



 After gobbling the packed lunch and playing/sliding on snow, I sat there to stare the snow-clad mountains only to feel how it would be to stand on the vertex. The very thought of it gave me goosebumps more than the chill wind!.


With a grim satisfaction, we returned to the camp. As the darkness enveloped the camp we all fell into a slumber...


DAY 06: Kalkati Dhar (2950mts) to Puani Gharat (~2550mts) 

The trail was quite familiar. One strange aspect about the mountains is it often puts you in a challenging situation and alters your thinking by 180 degrees.  I never thought the descent could be equally tiresome and risky. 

Once again thanks to the satellite telephone at Osla for connecting us to our dear ones. It reminded me of my college days of how I would call home to share my exam result. It was definitely a Déjà vu moment, but just that results were replaced by the summit-experience.

After reaching Pauni Gharat, I ended up spending the majority of my time sitting on the bank of supin river. It turned out to be my favorite-spot in the trek.

And yes this was our last day in the tent.

DAY 07: Puani Gharat (~2550mts) to Sankri (1850mts)

By now, we were no more amateur when it comes to dismantling the tents. We packed all our belongings and were set for the final descend. after a slow-pace trek to Taluka, we began our journey to the base camp- Sankri via a jeep ride.

We all settled on the jeep top. It wasn't a comfortable drive, but, none of us complained as it was a mixture of fear, fun, and excitement. Each time the jeep took over a treacherous curve the heart skipped a beat! 

The day came to an end after collecting the certificates and celebrating the success.

DAY 08: Sankri (1850mts) to Dehradhun (640mts)

The gust of wind from the upper mountains was perhaps the Himalayan way of saying goodbye. With a sense of accomplishment and hard-feeling we bid adieu to Sankri, and in course of time we were back to the city.

Back in the city, the ordinary pleasures of life - like connecting with the closed ones, being able to control the surrounding temperature, getting rid of thermals, gloves, and socks, gulping curd rice and pickle - did generate immense joy.

Like all good things coming to an end, the Himalayan trek ended too. I must say, the Himalayas have monopolized my thoughts and the trek imagery continues to permeate my dreams...